Opinion with Joe Mountain from Future Fashion Fair

Which areas does fashion need to urgently change in?

I suppose it's two areas. The first is that we need to significantly reduce the amount that we produce and consume, and the second is that the models in which we produce and consume need to be adapted to a circular system. Which comes first I'm not entirely sure, but I think based on the way we currently behave as citizens changing models should be enacted to curb production through this we can then start to slowly embed improved methodologies around consumer behaviour. By far the greatest and most concerning risk of all the planetary boundaries is climate change. With this in mind, we must first look to reduce our carbon emissions from a business perspective and the fastest way to do that, without degrowth, is through circular business models. These models look at redefining how we use resources, so not only do they reduce emissions but also look at being more efficient with the planet’s capabilities of producing virgin materials. I think this is the best place to start for many businesses.

How would you encourage someone who's never bought second-hand to make the switch from fast fashion?

I suppose more than anything, it's just about presenting the options in front of consumers. Above all, we have to change the narrative around second-hand fashion. The benefit of buying second-hand is the ability to look different while still remaining, what many fast fashion buyers want, on-trend. Understanding that ability to still remain relevant, even though it's considered second-hand, could be a key driver to helping consumers understand the differences. The cherry on top is the fundamental benefits that will then have on the environment because this will divert clothing from landfill, it will curb the production of new clothes, reduce the demand to fast fashion retailers and will minimise carbon and water footprint. Removing the taboos around second-hand and offering education around the environmental and social benefits can certainly change one's perspective, but much of it will come down to systemic change. If we change the status quo, We can make a more meaningful difference.

What role do small-scale crafters and upcycles play in changing the fashion systems?

Small-scale crafters and up cyclers play a vital role in offering new perspectives on fashion. These artisans embody the essence of sustainability, emphasizing craftsmanship, and reducing waste. But this alone cannot be sufficient to change fashion systems, they need support to showcase their skills and reach a new audience, an audience that is unfamiliar with these practices. It's why it's vital that they are given a platform to showcase their work and share their stories, as this not only prevents unwanted textiles from going to waste but also presents ideas of emotional durability on products. Which in turn makes consumers and owners wear them, keep them and care for them for longer.

What's the key to making sustainable fashion more accessible?

Sustainable fashion has developed a stigma for being inaccessible and unaffordable. This is due to many of the up charges on preferred fibres put on product by suppliers and retailers. But fundamentally to have a truly sustainable world where resources are protected, rivers are clean, and the climate is stable we need to reduce the amount we produce. One way to solve this problem is by going back to more traditional ways of valuing clothes. Fast fashion has only been around for the last 25 years or so, before then clothes were expensive in real financial terms to what they are now. So while we should ensure clothes are accessible that are new, the ‘tax’ on that luxury should be to pay a premium. To make sustainable fashion more accessible, circular business models and second hand can provide solutions that can mean consumers can buy responsibly. Swap shops, second-hand sellers and even rentals can be an option to spend less without having to consume more.

I think fashion influences play a huge role in the behaviour of a consumer as they become style and lifestyle inspirations, which is why they can be so impactful in both a negative and a positive way. It's difficult to say who is the most influential person because an influence is about changing people’s perspectives and that can come from the unlikeliest of sources that may not even know when they're doing it. I think there are some really great fashion activists putting a lot of pressure on brands and creating transparency, but I think it's the most influential people that will make the biggest difference in this industry. That's what will be the most interesting story; how can you onboard the likes of love island winners and all sports icons to share the message of sustainable fashion?